The school arranged for a homestay for me. I am living in the house of Doña Thelma, a retired school teacher. The house is shared by two guests, one a South African man who lives in Calgary the rest of the year, and one a traveler from the USA who is here indefinitely. Both are very interesting men and I enjoy our conversations, which are often about history and politics and travel. They've been very helpful in showing me the ropes (the Salvadorian pupasas at Parque Central aren't as tasty as the Nica ones...where to go to use the washroom if you are out walking, which money changer gives the best rates etc). I am sleeping in Doña Thelma's room, and she shares with her sister. Her cousin Roger lives here as well. The guests share a bathroom, and we're all respectful of each other, it works out fine. I was a little apprehensive at first but it is a wonderful place. Thelma is an amazing cook and she is happy to accommodate my not eating meat. She can make the simplest meal taste so great. I am lucky to have been placed here.
I've met a woman in my class who is from Oregon, travelling alone. She and I plan to take off for the upcoming weekend to San Juan del Sur. I'll be sure to take lots of photos.
Granada is a busy, noisy, active city with lots to do and see. The Calzada is aka Gringoland where there are lots of restaurants with outdoor patios and tourists and ex pats flock there after dark. On the weekends you'll see fire eaters, dancers, musicians and plenty of venders. The Parque Central is the main square, beside which the horse and carts line up during the day to take tourists on tours of the city. There are many churches to see inside and out, as well as a tower you can climb for a great view. Granada is situated on a large lake, and you can go on a boat tour of the islands in the area. One island is called Monkey Island due to the monkeys that live there. You'll get a great view of the monkeys from the boat. Laguna de Apoyo is a wonderful crater lake inside a (non active) volcano - great way to spend an afternoon, swimming and paddling. Masaya is an active volcano where you can go right up and see the lava below, not to be missed, go at night time. Pueblos Blancos are villages where there are artisans, witches, ceramics and while you're there you can go to El Mirador where there is a great view of Laguna de Apoyo.
How do I spend my days? I wake up to the sounds of birds and church bells. I start off with a breakfast served by Thelma, of fresh fruit, yogurt and granola. Then I head to school for the morning. At lunch I return and Thelma has another lovely meal prepared for me, often fish, sometimes salad, plantain, rice, vegetables, cheese etc. Then I do my homework, and then a siesta. By around 3-4 pm it has cooled off enough to head out for a walk, a yoga class or else I just sit on the patio with the other house guests or with Thelma and we chat. Dinner is a little less heavy than lunch, often pasta, rice and beans, veggies, more salad. I am always really satisfied and happy with the meals. In the evenings there might be a gathering of the school students that I'll attend, or I just hang out at the house, watch some TV and relax.
The cost of living here is unbelievably cheap by Canadian standards. A meal out in a restaurant will cost around $5-$10 most of the time. Beer is $1, a smoothie might be $2, a cab ride to and from town is $1.50. Yoga classes are $5 or $6 if you use their mat. For $15 you can get a private class. Room and board is $110 a week, but you can find hostels and hotels for $10-$30 a night that are comfortable. If you want the fancy hotel, the fanciest I have found is still only $120 a night!
There is so much history here, a lot for me to learn. I am interested in finding out more about the Sandinistas and the Contras. Both flags are flying in Parque Central, the Sandinista and the Nicaraguan flags.
Well it's time for my siesta now, I'll try to write more often. Ha I always say that!
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